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Image source : The Enchanted Manor. The Russian Imperial Crown was used in coronation ceremonies between 1762-1896. It features a 400 carat spinel, 75 pearls and nearly 5,000 diamonds. Imperial Russia (also known as the Russian Empire) has produced some of the most beautiful, famous and sought-after piece of jewellery, with famous names such as Carl Faberge being at the heart of the history of Russian jewellery. Russian jewellery peaked in the 18th and 19th centuries when there were major historical and political changes in the country which impacted the design and production of jewellery. A Brief History of How Russian Jewellery Evolved The rule of Emperor Peter I “The Great” 1682-1725 introduced real style and innovation to Russian jewellery after beginning important exchanges with the Western world which is said to have changed the style of Russian jewellery forever. A steady influence of foreign jewellers combined with traditional Russian jewellers created an established sizable jewellery industry in the country. A great example of this is Faberge, the family were expelled from Nantes in 1685 and travelled across Europe for two centuries before settling in St Petersburg. In 1842, Gustav Faberge opened a small jewellery shop in the city and in 1861, Peter Carl Faberge entered the business after finishing his training across Germany, London, Italy and France, having a huge influence on the style of jewellery it was producing with heavy French influences and enamelling. Image source : Lang Antique Jewelry University. Enameled Cufflinks c.1900 by Fabergé. Photo Courtesy of Christie’s. Another important name in Russian Jewellery is Bolin. The House of Bolin began during the reign of Catherine the Great (1762-1791) and worked right up to the revolution in 1917, providing the Russian Tsar’s and Empresses with their state jewels. The Bolin house made the most expensive jewellery in Russia, in 1851 they exhibited at The Great Exhibition in London and won the highest prize called the Counsel Medal for a tiara they had produced that was set with thousands of diamonds. Image source : Katie Callahan & Co. The Pearl Pendant Kokoshnik Tiara created in 1841 by Bolin for Empress Alexandra Feodorovna (the wife of Nicalos I), using 25 of the finest pearls hanging from diamond arches. It is often referred to as 'The Russian Beauty'. There had always been fierce competition between western influenced vs distinct Russian jewellery. In 1859 Alexander II sought to uncover Russia’s dense history (a policy he enforced called Russification) and from this came a development of a jewellery style that was globally recognised as Russian. Moscow was home to exclusively Russian style whilst St Petersburg was home to more westernised design. Multiple influences trickled into Russian design which is now recognised as being sparkling to stand against the fashion of dark fur, hence the use for such a heavy use of silver. The Russian State Jewels There is an unbelievable story surrounding the Russian state jewels and their current whereabouts. After the reign of Alexander II and Alexander III from 1855-1894, the Imperial Russian State Jewels were arguably the most important collection of jewellery in the world. In 1914 with the threat of revolution and war, all the state jewels were moved from St Petersburg to Moscow and hidden in vaults beneath the Kremlin. After being almost forgotten about for almost a decade before being rediscovered in 1926, the jewels were recorded and then subsequently sold to an American consortium and through Christie’s Auction house in London in 1927. Image source : Russia Beyond. A large selection of the Empire's jewellery which featured in the auctions. The funds raised were used by the Soviet government to rebuild society following the Russian Revolution. It is thought around 70% of the original collection was sold through this auction, the pieces being dispersed around the globe to places such as England, the USA and as far as the Philippines, with many of the jewel’s locations now being unknown. It is thought that many of the jewels were disassembled to be sold off, whilst some of the collection remains with private collectors and museums or has been repurchased and put on display in the museums of the Kremlin. Three highly valuable pieces are still not located, a gold and emerald necklace, a sapphire and diamond bracelet, and a sapphire and diamond tiara, their whereabouts are completely unknown. Whilst it's extremely unlikely we will stumble across one of these jewels on our jewellery hunts, we can't help but dream about the possibility of them rediscovered and being one step closer to solving the mystery. For now we are totally intrigued by the allure that Russian Imperial jewellery brings!

Prized for its beautiful green colour, the emerald gemstone is one of the most highly sought after and treasured jewels of the jewellery world. While numerous qualities are what make this gem so special, it is undoubtable that the colour influences the desirability. What is an emerald? The emerald gemstone belongs to the Beryl family, and is the green variation of beryl with chromium present . Included in the beryl family are Aquamarine, heliodor, morganite, goshenite and of course, the Emerald. Beryllium Aluminium silicate is the scientific name for a beryl gemstone, and all of these included above gems follow this chemical composition with their colour variation, or lack thereof, depending on trace quantities of impurities within the crystal lattice of the stone. It is the element Chromium causes that gorgeous, distinctive colour we so prize Emerald for. Without this element presenting as an impurity in the gemstone, the emerald would be either colourless and called goshenite, or referred to as 'green beryl' depending on which gemmologist you are talking to. So what about the inclusions? Alongside the colour, the secret inner world of the emerald is also what makes it so distinctive. The ethereal inclusions seen within the emerald gemstone have a special name; referred to as “jardin,” or “garden” - The " Jardin" being French for garden. This is because they can resemble moss or plant foliage, with fascinating fibrous needle like inclusions seen, other tiny crystals and even colour zoning. Image Source : Gemmology resource photos The combination of inclusions against a delicious green back drop are what create this garden like effect. Usually when selecting and pricing a gemstone the important factors are cut, clarity, colour and carat weight, but with an emerald it is well understood amongst the trade that inclusions are accepted. The clarity of an emerald is not comparable to an aquamarine, because most emeralds even those at higher values can contain inclusions. While it is true that the general rule when selecting a gemstone is that a higher value equals a lack of inclusions, emeralds and other stones can even be selected for their inclusions, and with the emerald gemstone it is almost expected. An eye clean emerald would be especially valuable and fetch a high price as they are so scarce. Image source : Charlie Luxe Vintage, Vintage 9ct Gold 1ct Emerald Pendant So why are emeralds more included than other members of the Beryl family? It is the chromium at play here. It is perhaps surprising that the colouring element locked within the crystal lattice of the emerald gemstone is also the very culprit that makes the emerald more susceptible to fracture. Emeralds are a brittle gemstone, ranking with a 'poor' for toughness while their hardness sits at a 7 1/2 on the MoHs scale of hardness. So what does this all mean? Gemmologists define a gemstone's hardness as 'the ability of a material to resist scratching and abrasion'. The ranking of a gemstone tells us how well this gemstone can hold it's polish and resist being scratched in daily wear, indicating if any additional care is needed and what gemstones can scratch it e.g. think of an emerald charm ranking at a 7 1/2 clinking against a diamond charm at a 10 - The emerald is going to be showing wear to it's surface over time. Image Source : Gemmology resource photos The toughness is where it gets interesting for the Emerald; toughness is describing and evaluating the property of a body of a material. How well can this gemstone resist fracturing? In the case of the emerald, it has a rating of 'poor' with the Gemmological Association, meaning this gemstone does requires additional care and it cannot withstand hard knocks ( even dropped onto a hard surface has been known to sadly cause a fractured gemstone ). The cut your are most likely to see with this gemstone is a truncated step cut or 'the emerald cut', named so because this cut is favoured for lapidaries when fashioning the emerald due to the lack of sharp corners ; Sharp pointed corners are more likely to chip on a brittle gemstone, therefore a truncated step cut with the corners removed still maximises the colour of the gemstone and offers some protection. Image source : Charlie Luxe Vintage, French Art Nouveau 14ct Gold Emerald Ring. The ring has been set with a truncated step cut emerald gemstone Emerald Lore As well as the inside world resembling a fascinating mossy garden, the emerald also has lore and myth associated with it. It is the birthstone of choice for the month of May, it has been said to guard sailors from perils at sea when worn around the neck, and also features in the 1914 book 'The book of talismans' where it is written that 'if worn in a ring, emerald strengthens the memory and protects from giddiness'. Image source : Gemmology resource photos ................................. We love the emerald gemstone, for the colour, the lore and most importantly that beautiful " Jardin" inside the inner world. Will you be including emeralds in your jewellery collection? Let us know in the comments below or get in touch if you would like us to source something for you.

Moodboards & inspiration from the Charlie Luxe 2022 Flower Show Collection We were completely inspired by the gorgeous Chelsea flower show for our themed drop, taking inspiration from the pink and purple 2022 colours scheme and all things floral. We always create a moodboard to capture the feeling of the drops and pick the selection together as a team, reflecting the Charlie Luxe feel and individual tastes of the team - Enjoy ! We favoured gorgeous Art Nouveau pieces in our inspiration, emerald gemstones played heavily in our selection alongside jewel tones and anything with flowers. It felt like we really took our time perfecting this collection with frequent buying trips to hunt out the best, rarest gems. " My favourite pick from the collection was the Art Nouveau pansy & muse locket slider which featured heavily in our moodboards . I am a huge Art Nouveau fan, and pansies are my favourite flower! So I just adore this locket, its fabulous !" - Danielle Dark green provided the perfect back drops for the more decadent pieces and kept the collection from feeling overly feminine, adding a moody tone . " My chosen pick are the 18ct gold enamel Art Deco earrings which were originally a set of cufflinks. I would have definitely worn them as cufflinks, but they work great as earrings too." - Daniel Instagram stories, photography and our emails featured the used of floral graphics alongside the antique and vintage jewellery, with a special focus on pink being one of our main brand colours and also the theme for the Chelsea Flower Show this year. " My favourite item from the drop is the minimal 18ct white gold floral band. I really like pieces that are not fussy, vintage but with a modern wearable feel so they match with my current jewellery which is mostly silver and white gold." - Shannon .......................... What did you think of this drop ? We had so much fun finding the pieces and it was the most items ever added to the shop in a single hit, somewhere between 30-40 fresh items. Let us know your thoughts below ! In no way affiliated with, just gorgeously inspired by, The Chelsea Flower Show

From rose to yellow and on to white, the colour of this metal varies and with this variation there exists the in-between. The colour of gold can be so subjective when faced with something not quite rose, but not bright yellow, an almost blending of both. So where is the definitive line ? Where does this favoured metal get its hue? A GUIDE TO GOLD The use of gold in jewellery dates far back in history when it became a symbol of status and wealth. Gold jewellery can be found in many forms and will always retain its value as a precious metal, a highly sought after treasure popping up again and again throughout worldwide cultures and ancient histories. There is influence in the colour from composition, not just the content with the gold alloy, the karat, but also the elements from which the alloy is forged. YELLOW GOLD We all know the historic value of pure gold, being the most sort after metal dating back over 5000 years ago where records have proven that the Ancient Egyptians used gold to decorate tombs and temples. In its purest form, exists 24 carat gold - This high karat isn’t the most practical for jewellery because the higher content of gold creates a much softer alloy which is vulnerable to bending, scratches, and denting. Image Source : The Met Fifth Avenue In Gallery 121 'Finger Ring depicting King Akhenaten and Queen Nefertiti as Shu and Tefnut CA. 1353-1336' Yellow gold is made from mixture of pure gold with silver, copper, and zinc. It is the most hypo allergenic metal and requires the least amount of maintenance, with the composition varying slightly with manufacture and alloy quality, the gold content resulting in karat etc. Its this yellow shade that springs to mind when we think of gold, the classic buttery yellow hues that characterise gold coins discovered in treasure chests, gold that decorates a hidden tomb and ancient relics. Image Source : Charlie Luxe Vintage, 18ct yellow gold earrings alongside 9ct yellow gold pendant. 'The difference in yellow shade between the two items of jewellery with differing karats in striking and obvious.' ROSE GOLD Moving on to Rose gold, a gold with a pinker deeper tint to the colour, that is no longer the distinctive 'bright yellow', but a softer more delicate shade. Rose gold was patented by British jeweller William Holden in 1842, he invented it as an attempt to recreate the look and colour of copper coins, originally naming rose gold ‘American Pink’. Image Source : Stock Photo Of A Copper 1p Coin Renowned Russian jeweller Carl Faberge was one of the first to use Rose Gold in ornate creations, most famously Faberge eggs. This then sparked the trend to use this mix of metals in jewellery, renaming the alloy mixture as ‘Rose Gold’. Image Source : Stock Image depicting a 'Faberge-esque' egg To obtain that rosier colour, rose gold is made with a high presence of copper mixed with pure gold. This addition of copper is what causes the gold to redden slightly, achieving the pinker hue. It is generally more affordable as copper is an extremely common metal, and is also more durable due to the strength coming from the inclusion of copper in the alloy. Interestingly rose gold also it also tends to have a softer texture, making it more comfortable to wear. Rose gold jewellery fades in and out of popularity as with yellow and white, but it is currently enjoying a boom ; The warmer softer tones tends to make it appear more subtle, and has a lovely aged lived in quality to the older pieces of jewellery. A common ratio for an 18 carat rose gold ring would be 75% gold, 22.5% copper and a small 2.5% of silver, whereas 14 carat rose gold would be approx. 48% gold and 42% copper. CHOOSING YOUR GOLD Rose gold can sometimes be slightly more affordable due to the copper content, however the cost of an item of jewellery is generally based off the percentage of pure gold. The higher the carat of gold, the more expensive an item of jewellery will be, regardless of what the gold is mixed with. Image Source Charlie Luxe Vintage. A mix of eras, gold karats and jewellery items. Rose gold is extremely durable, unlike yellow gold it does not tarnish (when the surface of the metal begins to look dull). However, over time rose gold can slightly darken in colour, this is because of everyday wear causing oxidisation, where a thin coating will cover the metal, often referred to as patina. A note for choosing rose gold over yellow is that it can rarely cause irritations in some instances, particularly if you are sensitive to the metals blended in the alloy. Due to this rose gold is not a recognised hypo-allergenic metal, which can be confusing because it is still gold. A general rule is that the higher the pure gold content, the less likely it will cause irritaton. It is recommended that those who are prone to allergic reactions should consider yellow gold and white gold jewellery over rose gold. GOLD TRENDS Like most things, gold has been in and out of fashion in modern times. Yellow gold was the predominate favourite from the 1960’s right through until the mid-nineties, when yellow gold then became considered 'tacky' and thus less desirable. White gold was then the favourable choice in search for jewellery that felt more modern and stylish. Image Source : Charlie Luxe Vintage, Vintage 18ct White Gold Engraved Blossom Band Moving further forward into the 2010s, trend forecasters WGSN began to regularly feature rose gold jewellery in their trend predictions in 2012, however nearly 100 years previous, rose gold was heavily popularised by the likes of Tiffany and Cartier, designing jewellery oozing warmth and femininity. This was until the Wall Street Crash in 1929 which gave way to newer commercial styles of jewellery. Today all types of gold colour are considered equally popular; rose gold has never dwindled in popularity in the same dramatic manner as yellow and white gold. Currently yellow and white gold are certainly having a resurgence thanks to celebrities such as Megan Markle inspiring the return of yellow gold thanks to *that* gold and diamond trilogy ring. Image Source : Marie Clare magazine There are even new trends being born in metal choice, with more unconventional materials such as tungsten being an increasingly popular choice for engagement and wedding rings, and of course the mixing of gold colours and karats alongside a necklace stack for the collectors and pursuers of fine antique and vintage jewellery. .................................. We love rose, yellow and white gold and we love to mix it up and wear them alongside each other, tell us in the comments what colour of gold you opt for and whether you mix it up or keep it classic !

A ring filled to the brim with history and sentiment, Fede Gimmel rings are the perfect jewel to show love and commitment, or collect for their interesting and rich past. The Origin Of A Name Fede comes from the Italian phrase ‘mani in fede’ meaning ‘hands clasped in trust’. The Fede motif is two clasped hands joined together and is representative of the joining of hands of a couple at a marriage ceremony. This practice dates to Ancient Roman times, the holding of hands and giving of rings being a form of consent to marriage between a couple. It is believed that Fede rings are the earliest examples of the modern-day wedding ring. Gimmel rings are named after the Latin word ‘gemellus’ which means ‘twin’, indicating two interlocking hoops of the ring. Some rings are formed with more than two hoops with some having up to five hoops, these are often also known as puzzle rings. During the Renaissance period a couple set to be married would receive one ring each during their engagement, which would then form to be a completed gimmel ring at the wedding ceremony, connecting by interlocking. Continuing with a closer look at the name, 'Gemellus’ is also a diminutive for the word ‘Geminus’, which relates to where the Zodiac Gemini got its name from, making gimmel rings even more special for people of that star sign! Remember that Gemmellus means 'twin', and the gemini zodiac star sign is represented by a twinned depiction. Image Source : The British Museum, fede ring; gimmel ring. 16th C- 17th C, 'A gold fede and gimmel ring consisting of two interlocking and twisted hoops with clasped hands forming the bezel. Within the lower hand is a heart and, when the two hoops are joined, the top hand clasps this heart.' During the 16th and 17th centuries motifs such as love hearts were introduced on a third band; the bride wearing one band, the groom wearing the second and a witness would wear the band adorned with the heart - the witness would often be the person who introduced the couple. All three bands then being brought together connecting with a pin and worn by the bride. Once the clasped hands parted, three bands are revealed to show the heart hidden inside, much like the image below from a recent acquisition to our shop. It was during this period of time that these rings were also known as 'hand in hand', another name to add to a growing list of ways to describe this style of band- From the V&A ; ' such as the ring left by Johan Broucker to her sister in 1577, described as a 'ringe of golde with an hande in hande' Image Source : Charlie Luxe Vintage, ' Vintage synthetic ruby fede gimmel ring in 14ct gold' The Merging Of Two Rings Combining the Fede motif with a gimmel ring makes the ultimate jewel for representing a contract of marriage between two people. They were often customised with engraved quotes, names or included significant gemstones such as birthstones, making the connection between the two wearers even stronger. Image Source : The V&A, 1800-1850. ' The clasped hands on the bezel of this ring show that it is a fede ring. This type of ring was known in Roman times and has been used in Europe from the medieval period until the nineteenth century. ' As seen in the image above taken from the Victoria and Albert Museum, the rings do not interlock with the use of a pin but rather a twist of wire or twisting of the metal bands themselves. Interestingly you can see the slow evolution through time in the image above; the fede ring where clasped 'hand -in -hand' to a rather cruder wire wrapped selection 3 at the introduction of a third hidden band, moving on to a much more sophisticated version above further in our own image, where a pin interlocks and secures the three. Image Source : Charlie Luxe Vintage ' Vintage 14ct gold Fede Gimmel ring with synthetic ruby gemstones' ..................................... While highly collectable as a Fede ring, its this addition of the third band that really makes the Fede-Gimmel so coveted within the jewellery community. As a community of self confessed jewellery addicts, we are always searching for that rare and hard to find treasure, something unexpected and beautiful.

Editorial look for Charlie Luxe Vintage 20201 If you would like to work with us on collaborative shoots please get in touch via info@charlieluxevintage.com

Image source ; The Victoria & Albert Museum, 1800-1900, "This charm bracelets is believed to have been assembled in the 1970s using the jewelled heads of nineteenth-century stick pins as charms. Individuality is a key element of any charm bracelet due to the personal way in which the charms are collected. Here the diversity of shapes and of minerals create a rich and colourful effect." Its no secret we are huge admirers and charm fanatics, beginning our jewellery career as first avid collectors and keepers of these treasures, before taking a deep dive into the studying and curating as antique dealers. We have personally had some of the rarest, and most highly sought after pieces pass through our hands before being sold to their destined keeper. Jewels as beautiful and coveted as those viewed in museums, and longingly added to Pinterest boards in the anticipation of 'one day'. A Brief History Of The Charm Bracelet There exists archaeological evidence of charm bracelets being worn as early as 400-600 BC, which is absolutely fascinating to consider. Charms were worn in prehistoric times as a type of talisman or amulet in the belief of keeping evil spirits away, to bring good luck, or to make spirits happy. During this era, its important to note that charms were not always worn on bracelets, but on necklaces or placed on clothing or in pouches, leading us to ask at what point did the charm bracelet we recognise today become the convention to display and wear charms. These ancient charms were often made from animal bone, teeth, shell, or gemstones, which isn't far removed at all from the gems we adorn ourselves with in the present. Image source ; Charlie Luxe Vintage, 1800-1970 ' A charm bracelet holding a colourful variety of vintage and antique charms mixed together on the same bracelet. Featuring an array of gemstones and era, from 1800s Victorian jewellery right through to the 1970s' Moving further forward, looking to Ancient Egypt, Ancient Rome & Ancient Greece The Pharaohs of Ancient Egypt have been found in their tombs buried with charms made from gold, silver, and precious stones, to protect them in the afterlife. Gemstones such as Lapis Lazuli and Turquoise feature heavily in Ancient Egyptian jewellery, scarabs carved from beautiful turquoise and engraved to the base. Looking to some of the pieces collected by the jewellery community today, you will find carved scarab charms, solid gold burial masks in novelty charm form, and enamelled Egyptian revival charms with hieroglyphs and Ancient Egyptian style paintings. The unearthing of King Tutankhamun's tomb in 1922 saw the beginning of The Egyptian Revival era of the 1920s; Strong geometric design of the 1920s met the traditional Egyptian iconography. Image source ; The Met Museum 1295-1070 B.C. ' Scarab with baboons of Thoth adorning Amun' In Ancient Rome, charms were worn for religious reasons, Christians wore small fish-shaped charms as a way of communicating to other Christians their religious leaning. A fish shape was chosen because of the Greek word for fish “Ichthys” which was an acronym for ‘Jesus Christ, Son of God, Saviour’ in the Greek language. Image source ; The Met Museum 1878-1749 B.C. ' Fish pendant found From Egypt, Memphite Region, Lisht North, cemetery west of the tomb of Senwosret (758), Pit 847, MMA excavations, 1908–09' Queen Victoria The Victorian era is where a noticeable rise and popularity in charm bracelets can be placed in time. Queen Victoria flipped the use of charms from practical to aesthetic. Her love for luxury and jewellery made charm bracelets fashionable to wear, particularly by the wealthy to show off their fortune. The death of Prince Albert died in 1981, Queen Victoria had a mourning charm bracelet made, featuring a locket with an image of the prince, a locket of his hair and charms which were mementos of their life together. Image source ; The Royal Collection Trust ' Queen Victoria's Charm Bracelet, 19th Century, ' "A gold charm bracelet with sixteen various oval and heart shaped lockets, enamelled in black on gold. Some set with jewels, others engraved, several with inscriptions. Miniature photograph of male head. Provenance This bracelet was worn constantly by Queen Victoria. This was one of a group of jewels placed in the 'Albert Room' at Windsor Castle after the Queen's death in 1901. This was the room in which Prince Albert had died in 1861 and the Queen left instructions for a specific list of personal jewellery to be placed there and not passed on in the family. " [ The Royal Collection Trust ] WW2 World War 2 saw the resurgence of lockets and bringing sentiment back to charms and lockets, with images of loved ones being adorned in a locket, and lucky items and symbols being hung from jewellery as a form of symbolic protection. Charms were worn in this period in a more personal way, as a reminder of good times and loved ones. Moving forward from the war, charm bracelets started to become much more commercialised, with fashion designers such as Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli bringing out their own take on the style. Icons such as Grace Kelly, Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor were seen wearing charm bracelets, creating a craze during the 1950’s and 1960’s. Mass production of charms began in these two decades, with charms being created to celebrate birthdays, friendship, travel, anniversaries, and celebrations. Think of the stacked bracelets from the 70s & 60s, brimming with novelty articulated charms, initials, birth dates and zodiac signs. Image source ; Charlie Luxe Vintage ' A charm bracelet example' The charm bracelet is personal to the wearer, an expression of fashion, taste and sentimentality. A curation of eras, styles and beliefs all worn as a single item of jewellery, creating something unique and bespoke ; a pleasure to construct from the design of the bracelet down to the themes, colours and ages of the pieces.

You can't have jewellery without hallmarking, it plays such an integral part in assisting with dating our treasures and guaranteeing the metal finesse. Lets dive into what exactly a hallmark is, what it can tell you and how to read them. Did you know that in the UK it is a legal requirement that any gold jewellery being sold, must be stamped with an official hallmark from one of the four Assay offices? The UK’s Hallmarking Act of 1973 makes it an offence to sell gold jewellery without one of the four hallmarks. It is one of a few countries that make hallmarking compulsory, applying this law to trading and supplying metals that are being described as a precious metal. Any manufactured items containing more than 1 gram of gold must be hallmarked. THE ASSAY OFFICES The four Assay offices are in Birmingham, Edinburgh, London, and Sheffield, with the London office opening in 1327. Previous historic offices which have now closed, include Chester, Exeter, Glasgow, Newcastle, Norwich and York. Hallmarking is one of the earliest forms of consumer protection. It is a guarantee that the item has been independently tested to meet the legal standards of purity. A hallmark will be stamped on an inconspicuous part of a piece of jewellery, for example the inside of a ring band, so that it does not interfere or distract from the design and function of the piece. In total there are 5 Full Traditional Hallmarks : - Sponsor's mark -Traditional finesse mark -Millesimal finesse mark -Assay office mark -Date letter mark SPONSOR'S MARK This is also known as the Maker’s Mark. This is the registered mark of the company/designer of the item. It is usually in the shape of a shield and includes 2-5 initials. Each sponsors/marker’s mark is unique to make them easily identifiable. TRADITIONAL FINESSE MARK This is optional and not a requirement, but it usually applied as a standard by the Goldsmith’s Company Assay Office. This mark was used prior to 1999, mainly to show the fineness of gold, silver and platinum using a traditional symbol, such as crowns, lions and orbs. MILLESIMAL FINESSE MARK This tells you the quality of precious metal that has been used in the piece of jewellery. It is a numerical format, made compulsory to include from 1999. The numbers are placed inside a shield, the shape indicates the metal type, whilst the numbers represent the content of the metal. A familiar and widely recognisable Millesimal Fineness Mark is an oval with the numbers 925 inside, which classifies sterling silver. ASSAY OFFICE MARK This mark identifies which office tested and hallmarked the item. Each of the four Assay offices mentioned above have their own hallmark. DATE LETTER MARK Another non-compulsory mark which is used to date the item. The font, case and shield shape change annually on January 1st so that each year is easily recognised, with the stamps being destroyed at the end of the year so that they cannot be used to incorrectly date a piece of jewellery. There are also many forms of commemorative marks, which are sometimes used to mark special occasions. The Queen’s coronation and jubilee’s have their own hallmark as well as a unique mark to celebrate the new millennium. In 2022, Queen Elizabeth II will become the first monarch to ever receive a commemorative hallmark to hail her seventy years at the throne. Jewellers, silversmiths, and retailers can request that the Assay offices applies this hallmark. WHAT IF THERE IS NO HALLMARK? Often antique jewellery will not carry a full UK hallmark, or even any sort of mark at all and this is quite usual for the era and ages of the items. Compulsory hallmarking came into effect during the 20th century and items pre 1950 are exempt from hallmarking. Experienced dealers rarely rely on a hallmark alone to date a piece of antique jewellery, it assists but is not essential. If there is no hallmark, the metal finesse can still be determined by testing the gold to determine the carat. There may be a stamp denoting at minimum the expected gold carat, an experienced jeweller will still test to confirm this. You can never guarantee how hallmarks will appear when sourcing for second-hand vintage and antique jewels, we always try our best to identify every mark that has been stamped onto a piece of jewellery. Part of the allure of deciphering hallmarks on pieces of antique and vintage jewellery is the history behind an item, wondering who owned it and where it may have been worn. Hallmarks offer an excellent and reliable clue which only fuels our intrigue further.

We reached out to Alice last month after admiring her gorgeous vintage style, I always find myself pulled into her photos when scrolling through her feed . Her closet and home are filled with vintage treasures, glimpses of them are shared on her Instagram and blog with her effortlessly chic outfit pairings mixing smoothly alongside modern offerings . We collaborated with Alice asking her to play with and style our vintage jewels. The photos from our collab can be found on our Instagram, Alice’s Instagram and throughout our chat here with Alice on vintage . ———————————————— Alice, Your feed is filled with beautiful vintage styling from your home to your clothes- What age did you become interested in vintage ? Thank you so much, that’s so kind! I think I’ve always been attracted to ‘old things’ for as long as I can remember. I’ve always loved History and Literature and I think those two things have definitely led me towards an interest in vintage pieces. Whether it’s spending the day in a museum or digging through an old book shop – I’ve fallen in love with the idea that everything has a story attached to it in some way or another. I also spent a lot of time at my Grandparents house in the Lake District growing up. They both loved collecting antiques and there was a big Grandfather clock in the hallway that used to fascinate me/creep me out a bit at the same time. My Mum sometimes says that I’m my Gran reincarnated – I think because we both gravitate towards the same traditionally ‘masculine’ style pieces. Gold signet rings, oversized striped blouses, and chunky shoes that some might consider ugly… Is there a particular era you are most drawn to when choosing vintage items to wear and keep in your home ? I love the Sixties/Seventies but mainly because I’m drawn to the spirit of those eras and what they represented in terms of women’s fashion/more freedom for female expression and just generally having more fun with personal style. I love Mid Century Modern style pieces for my home – my homeware taste is weirdly a lot more colourful than my wardrobe taste. I think it’s easier to express more sides of my personality throughout my home style, whereas I’ve definitely developed a bit of a uniform when it comes to my wardrobe. I think that just comes naturally with getting older and experimenting a bit less. In general, I think it really depends on my mood each day – I definitely don’t consider my style to be loyal to any particular era. Some days I’ll want to feel really classic 40’s/50’s inspired in a cream blouse, tailored trousers and a pearl necklace. Other days I might even look quite Nineties inspired in jeans, an oversized shirt and Converse. It’s all mood dependent, and usually whatever TV show/film I happen to be into at that time. The jewellery on your Instagram photos has a lovely gold vibe to it, is there a certain style of jewellery you look for when hunting for vintage treasures ? Definitely gold pieces! I love anything chunky with interesting stones. My jewellery is really where I like to make a statement, so I like it to feel a little bit ‘over the top’ sometimes. I collect vintage clip on earrings for example – I think it’s fun to add them to a really laid back outfit like jeans and a T-shirt. They just amplify any look and make getting dressed way more fun. I also love gold chains and signet rings. I have quite a few vintage pieces that I wear on repeat – I love how conversational jewellery can be, and I like everything I pick up to have a memory attached to it. Jewellery is such a personal thing and I definitely feel like something is missing when I forget to wear any. _______________________________ You were able to have a play with a wide range of our pieces from different eras all with a variety of styles, what was your favourite piece and how would you style it ? I really loved the pearl necklace because it had such a gorgeous vintage clasp! I think details like that are really what make vintage jewellery feel so special. I also loved a lot of the gold chains because they were fun to layer together. Layering jewellery is always like a bit of a jigsaw puzzle – I’m forever adding things and then removing them again until I find a combination that really works. Finally, do you have any tips on figuring out what styles of vintage to go for and what to look for when buying vintage ? These days, I just go with what I’m most attracted to! I don’t really think about trends too much as I get older – I know what suits me and makes me feel my best. In terms of clothing, I always pick fabrics that feel nice on the skin, and don’t take anything home that requires too many repairs. Life is too short and it’s likely not to get worn! When it comes to jewellery, always ask questions if you’re buying online and there’s not enough imagery. I’d also recommend investing in real gold/silver pieces because they have real value and you can pass them on if you get bored of them – costume jewellery is fun but it just doesn’t last. I’d much rather build up a collection of well crafted pieces over a lifetime. I think that’s what makes a jewellery box so special and meaningful! My Grans was like a treasure chest and I used to love imagining where she wore specific pieces and how she might have styled them… ———————————————— We loved working with Alice and talking all things vintage . If you would like to follow Alice on Instagram you can find her at @alicecatherine , and to keep up to date with her posts you can find her blog at www.alicecatherine.com where shes shares everything from fashion, vintage through to lifestyle and activism .